About the Route

New Zealand may be the ultimate road trip destination. One of the most spectacular–and least visited–road trips follows the Pacific Coast of the deep south, to the very southern point of the South Island, and back up through New Zealand’s famous southern alps and fiordlands. Towards the end of the southern hemisphere autumn, I hopped in my van and set my sights south, taking in the spirit of this historically, culturally, and ecologically rich region.

Oamaru

The Southern Scenic Route officially starts in Dunedin, but I wanted to include the coastal town of Oamaru, just an hour north, which turned out to be one of my favorite stops along the way. Famous for its 19th-Century Victorian limestone architecture, dramatic coastlines and abundance of wildlife, Oamaru is a can’t-miss destination for visitors to the South Island.

After checking in to my room at the quaint and homely local YHA, I made my way on foot to the Victorian Precinct, a small historical district comprising of a couple streets sandwiched between downtown and the harbor. Walking through the narrow streets lined with grand old buildings on either side and penny-farthings leaning against alleyways, transported me back to an earlier time. The buildings are constructed with limestone sourced from local deposits and house a variety of odd and curious shops that maintain the Victorian aesthetic. I spent my time browsing through the impressive collection at Adventure Books, home to rare editions of prints detailing early Himalayan and Antarctic explorations, as well as limited copies of Captain James Cook’s own personal sea journals. Next door, a local stonemason and artist was creating intricate and delicate sculptures from blocks of limestone.

Fitting to the Victorian theme, Oamaru is also regarded as New Zealand’s ‘steampunk capital.’ The Sci-fi genre popularized in the works of authors such as Jules Verne and H.G. Wells, steampunk is characterized by a cross between the steam engines and fashion of the British Victorian-era and futuristic fantasy worlds exploring ideas like time travel and robotic machinery. Oamaru’s Steampunk HQ is an interactive museum portraying steampunk-themed art and constructions created by New Zealand artists. Walking around the dark, eerie museum, surrounded by displays of gothic trains and submarines, and machines promising to transport me to a far away time and world, I felt as if I had stepped straight onto the set of Mad Max.

Before leaving Oamaru, don’t miss the opportunity to gorge on some mouthwatering cheese rolls–a Southland delicacy–at the Whitestone Cheese Factory.

On my second day in Oamaru, I took a day trip to the Moeraki boulders. These odd, perfectly symmetrical boulders are strewn across the long stretch of beach like golf balls clubbed by some giant with a 7-iron from miles away. They were, in fact, formed over millions of years on the sea floor as great pressure consolidated the sediment together, until the coast uplifted from the sea and the cliffs eroded away, allowing the boulders to roll free onto the beach, where they lie today. Along with these geological wonders, Moeraki provides quiet, wide stretches of sand perfect for a long early morning beach stroll.

Dunedin

The port city of Dunedin has a significant history of whaling, gold, and Scottish immigration. During the height of the central Otago gold rush, Dunedin–the closest port–was the most populated and wealthiest city in New Zealand. Today, it is known as a buzzing college town with a vibrant arts, music, and cultural scene, as well as being located next to, and within, habitats for some of the world’s rarest and most unique wildlife.

The Elm Wildlife Tour is not to be missed while in Dunedin. The half-day tour brings you within close proximity to the world’s largest sea bird–the royal albatross, the world’s rarest penguin–the yellow-eyed penguin, as well as endangered sea lions, and New Zealand fur seals. Elm’s wildlife guides are knowledgable and and will ensure you have an unforgettable experience, one that is safe for both you and the animals.

The Catlins

The Catlins, hidden in the deep bottom corner of the South Island, is one of the few relatively unspoiled places left in New Zealand. Here, native rainforest and old-growth still thrives, growing right up to the wide open beaches, rocky shores, and the vast Pacific Ocean.

I spent two days driving through this wild and sparsely populated country, staying a night in the small town of Balclutha. Just an hour or so drive from Balclutha, is the Nugget Point lighthouse, a perfectly picturesque historic lighthouse perched on a steep cliff overlooking the shoreline. A short scenic walk takes you to this outstretched point providing views of the dramatic coastline of The Catlins and the rollicking sea below.

The next day, on my way to Invercargill, I stopped several times along the empty highway, which opened up to some of the most incredible landscapes I’ve ever seen. The highlights included Tautuku Bay, where dense old-growth forest saturated with the sound of birdsong and the pounding surf meets a stunning stretch of sand. In the middle of the forest, lies Lake Wilkie, home to a small teardrop lake with mirror-like reflections and a unique brackish habitat.

Further south along the road lies Curio Bay, where more serene coastlines, beaches, and wildlife habitat await. The rain and wind came and went all day, drenching down onto my van as I drove along one moment, and clearing up the next, revealing a new and wondrous sight with each sweep of the wiper blades.

By the time I reached Curio Bay, the downpour was relentless and the wind threatened to blow me off to sea as I climbed a hill to the top of a cliff overlooking the bay. A sense of overwhelming joy and laughter overcame me as I stood there, bracing myself against the onslaught of bullets cascading down from above. It was miserable, yet perfect.

Invercargill/Bluff

Invercargill is the southernmost major city in New Zealand, and one of the most southern cities in the world. The main reason I went here was to visit Bluff–the southernmost town in New Zealand and gateway to Stewart Island.

Bluff is famous for primarily two things: first, the ‘Edge of the World’ signpost displaying the distance to various destinations around the world and second, the oysters. Bluff oysters are sold all around New Zealand but I wanted the full experience of visiting Bluff during oyster season (March-August) to try out this delicacy.

Hailing from the Pacific Northwest, I am no stranger to good fresh oysters, but I will say these Bluff oysters were at least equal too, or maybe even surpassing the ones of my home country. The first place I stopped was at a small take-way shop along the side of the highway heading into Bluff called Fowler’s Oysters. This is one of the most popular places to sample oysters in Bluff, serving them in almost every way imaginable. I tried a half dozen fried with a serving of chips and a piece of fried Blue Cod on the side. Light and crispy on the outside and warm and tender on the inside, this savory comfort meal hit the spot after braving the rain and cold winds all day at the edge of New Zealand.

If you are really keen on getting your oyster fix, as I was, there are much more dining options in Invercargill. For dinner, I stopped in to The Rocks cafe and restaurant where I ordered another half dozen Bluff oysters, this time raw with a splash of lemon and malt vinegar–the real way to eat fresh oysters. Shooting them like tequila shots, I finished the plate in about 30 seconds, satisfied yet still contemplating placing another order.

Aside from splurging on fresh oysters, Invercargill and Bluff are also home to a number of fascinating museums including the Bill Richardson Transport World car museum and the Bluff Maritime Museum–a small exhibit displaying the history of exploration, whaling, shipping, and oyster harvesting in the Bluff region.

Te Anau

The last stop along the Southern Scenic Route before driving back to Queenstown is Te Anau, located along the shore of the massive Lake Te Anau. This small town is the gateway to Fiordland National Park and also a starting point for the Routeburn, Kepler, and Milford Tracks–three of New Zealand most famous Great Walks.

Along with these popular tracks, Te Anau offers a seemingly endless array of outdoor opportunities including day hikes, mountain biking, fly fishing, and scenic flights and helicopter rides. The town is also only a couple hour drive from Milford Sound, along what might be one of the most scenic and breathtaking highways in the world.

Upon completing the Southern Scenic Route, you will have visited three different seas–the Pacific Ocean to the east, the Southern Sea to the south in Bluff, and the Tasman Sea to the west at Milford Sound. Hopefully you were also lucky enough, as I was, to see some of the world’s rarest wildlife, most unique landscapes, sample some truly delicious local Southland cuisine, and experience a region rich with history and culture.