I always dreamt of climbing mountains while growing up. Into Thin Air was my favorite book growing up and I poured over photos and stories in the pages of National Geographic of these adventurous climbers summiting iconic peaks around the world. I wanted to be like them.
Much of my life has been spent in the mountains; skiing in the winter, hiking and camping in the summers. However, I mainly admired the peaks from below, rather than attempting to reach the top of them–those that required technical gear and experience at least. It wasn’t until I began to feel the need to challenge myself more that I decided to take up mountaineering.
The Remarkables Range, just over half an hour from Queenstown, offers some of the most accessible climbing and mountaineering in New Zealand. This makes it an ideal location for beginner climbers to get their ‘feet wet’ in mountaineering and be able to bag a couple impressive peaks, all while making it home in time for dinner and après.
Our plan was to climb and ski Single Cone, the highest peak in the Remarkables, dominating the skyline over Lake Alta and the ski resort below. For my partners and I, this would be the first of several ski mountaineering missions in an effort to eventually summit and ski the iconic Mt. Aspiring at the end of the season. Considering this was my first time using an ice axe and crampons, I would need a few more of these ‘warm-ups’ before that attempt happened.
Luckily, I had two experienced and trustworthy partners, both of whom I met in Queenstown while working at a local ski shop over the winter. Kaz is an early-30’s and unbelievably fit Japanese fellow who moved to New Zealand over five years ago. He spends his winters ski instructing in Queenstown and his summers guiding multi-day hikes on the famous Milford and Routeburn Tracks. Julen is a Spaniard just a couple years younger than me and my main ski touring partner of the season. He is one of those who enjoys the uphill even more than the downhill. In recent years I’ve come to enjoy the uphill more (or rather, hate it less), but skiing for me is still about about the deep turns and high-speed descents. But who knows, maybe this whole climbing mountains thing will give me new perspective.
We could not have picked a better day to summit. The morning started out a touch overcast, but by the time we left the ski area and put skins on, only a few lingering clouds remained in an otherwise clear sky. The route was straight forward, skinning from the top of the chairlift and then ascending up the southwest ridge of Single Cone. Crampons were not needed until just below the summit, where a short, but steep and VERY exposed, section was our only obstacle before reaching the top. Luckily, the snow was in perfect condition for climbing-soft enough to punch through with crampons, but firm enough to feel stable. I tried not to think about the fact that I had 3000 feet of vertical drop between me and the ground below, with no rope to catch me if I did slip.
However, the exposed section was short and not too technical and it wasn’t long before we were taking in the views from the top, looking across at Double Cone and the other Remarkables peaks, and down to Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown below. Two ski patrollers were also at the summit–with mono-skis on their packs–who were planning to summit and drop into the Grand Couloir on the other side during their lunch break (crazy cats).
We descended the same way we came up and had a cruisy ski down to the bottom as the morning breakable crust had softened up into a fast and carve-able cream cheese. By the end of the day, I was wrecked but felt much more confident in my mountaineering skills and ready for the next mission.
About the Route
New Zealand may be the ultimate road trip destination. One of the most spectacular–and least visited–road trips follows the Pacific Coast of the deep south, to the very southern point of the South Island, and back up through New Zealand’s famous southern alps and fiordlands. Towards the end of the southern hemisphere autumn, I hopped in my van and set my sights south, taking in the spirit of this historically, culturally, and ecologically rich region.
Oamaru
The Southern Scenic Route officially starts in Dunedin, but I wanted to include the coastal town of Oamaru, just an hour north, which turned out to be one of my favorite stops along the way. Famous for its 19th-Century Victorian limestone architecture, dramatic coastlines and abundance of wildlife, Oamaru is a can’t-miss destination for visitors to the South Island.
After checking in to my room at the quaint and homely local YHA, I made my way on foot to the Victorian Precinct, a small historical district comprising of a couple streets sandwiched between downtown and the harbor. Walking through the narrow streets lined with grand old buildings on either side and penny-farthings leaning against alleyways, transported me back to an earlier time. The buildings are constructed with limestone sourced from local deposits and house a variety of odd and curious shops that maintain the Victorian aesthetic. I spent my time browsing through the impressive collection at Adventure Books, home to rare editions of prints detailing early Himalayan and Antarctic explorations, as well as limited copies of Captain James Cook’s own personal sea journals. Next door, a local stonemason and artist was creating intricate and delicate sculptures from blocks of limestone.
Fitting to the Victorian theme, Oamaru is also regarded as New Zealand’s ‘steampunk capital.’ The Sci-fi genre popularized in the works of authors such as Jules Verne and H.G. Wells, steampunk is characterized by a cross between the steam engines and fashion of the British Victorian-era and futuristic fantasy worlds exploring ideas like time travel and robotic machinery. Oamaru’s Steampunk HQ is an interactive museum portraying steampunk-themed art and constructions created by New Zealand artists. Walking around the dark, eerie museum, surrounded by displays of gothic trains and submarines, and machines promising to transport me to a far away time and world, I felt as if I had stepped straight onto the set of Mad Max.
Before leaving Oamaru, don’t miss the opportunity to gorge on some mouthwatering cheese rolls–a Southland delicacy–at the Whitestone Cheese Factory.
On my second day in Oamaru, I took a day trip to the Moeraki boulders. These odd, perfectly symmetrical boulders are strewn across the long stretch of beach like golf balls clubbed by some giant with a 7-iron from miles away. They were, in fact, formed over millions of years on the sea floor as great pressure consolidated the sediment together, until the coast uplifted from the sea and the cliffs eroded away, allowing the boulders to roll free onto the beach, where they lie today. Along with these geological wonders, Moeraki provides quiet, wide stretches of sand perfect for a long early morning beach stroll.
Dunedin
The port city of Dunedin has a significant history of whaling, gold, and Scottish immigration. During the height of the central Otago gold rush, Dunedin–the closest port–was the most populated and wealthiest city in New Zealand. Today, it is known as a buzzing college town with a vibrant arts, music, and cultural scene, as well as being located next to, and within, habitats for some of the world’s rarest and most unique wildlife.
The Elm Wildlife Tour is not to be missed while in Dunedin. The half-day tour brings you within close proximity to the world’s largest sea bird–the royal albatross, the world’s rarest penguin–the yellow-eyed penguin, as well as endangered sea lions, and New Zealand fur seals. Elm’s wildlife guides are knowledgable and and will ensure you have an unforgettable experience, one that is safe for both you and the animals.
The Catlins
The Catlins, hidden in the deep bottom corner of the South Island, is one of the few relatively unspoiled places left in New Zealand. Here, native rainforest and old-growth still thrives, growing right up to the wide open beaches, rocky shores, and the vast Pacific Ocean.
I spent two days driving through this wild and sparsely populated country, staying a night in the small town of Balclutha. Just an hour or so drive from Balclutha, is the Nugget Point lighthouse, a perfectly picturesque historic lighthouse perched on a steep cliff overlooking the shoreline. A short scenic walk takes you to this outstretched point providing views of the dramatic coastline of The Catlins and the rollicking sea below.
The next day, on my way to Invercargill, I stopped several times along the empty highway, which opened up to some of the most incredible landscapes I’ve ever seen. The highlights included Tautuku Bay, where dense old-growth forest saturated with the sound of birdsong and the pounding surf meets a stunning stretch of sand. In the middle of the forest, lies Lake Wilkie, home to a small teardrop lake with mirror-like reflections and a unique brackish habitat.
Further south along the road lies Curio Bay, where more serene coastlines, beaches, and wildlife habitat await. The rain and wind came and went all day, drenching down onto my van as I drove along one moment, and clearing up the next, revealing a new and wondrous sight with each sweep of the wiper blades.
By the time I reached Curio Bay, the downpour was relentless and the wind threatened to blow me off to sea as I climbed a hill to the top of a cliff overlooking the bay. A sense of overwhelming joy and laughter overcame me as I stood there, bracing myself against the onslaught of bullets cascading down from above. It was miserable, yet perfect.
Invercargill/Bluff
Invercargill is the southernmost major city in New Zealand, and one of the most southern cities in the world. The main reason I went here was to visit Bluff–the southernmost town in New Zealand and gateway to Stewart Island.
Bluff is famous for primarily two things: first, the ‘Edge of the World’ signpost displaying the distance to various destinations around the world and second, the oysters. Bluff oysters are sold all around New Zealand but I wanted the full experience of visiting Bluff during oyster season (March-August) to try out this delicacy.
Hailing from the Pacific Northwest, I am no stranger to good fresh oysters, but I will say these Bluff oysters were at least equal too, or maybe even surpassing the ones of my home country. The first place I stopped was at a small take-way shop along the side of the highway heading into Bluff called Fowler’s Oysters. This is one of the most popular places to sample oysters in Bluff, serving them in almost every way imaginable. I tried a half dozen fried with a serving of chips and a piece of fried Blue Cod on the side. Light and crispy on the outside and warm and tender on the inside, this savory comfort meal hit the spot after braving the rain and cold winds all day at the edge of New Zealand.
If you are really keen on getting your oyster fix, as I was, there are much more dining options in Invercargill. For dinner, I stopped in to The Rocks cafe and restaurant where I ordered another half dozen Bluff oysters, this time raw with a splash of lemon and malt vinegar–the real way to eat fresh oysters. Shooting them like tequila shots, I finished the plate in about 30 seconds, satisfied yet still contemplating placing another order.
Aside from splurging on fresh oysters, Invercargill and Bluff are also home to a number of fascinating museums including the Bill Richardson Transport World car museum and the Bluff Maritime Museum–a small exhibit displaying the history of exploration, whaling, shipping, and oyster harvesting in the Bluff region.
Te Anau
The last stop along the Southern Scenic Route before driving back to Queenstown is Te Anau, located along the shore of the massive Lake Te Anau. This small town is the gateway to Fiordland National Park and also a starting point for the Routeburn, Kepler, and Milford Tracks–three of New Zealand most famous Great Walks.
Along with these popular tracks, Te Anau offers a seemingly endless array of outdoor opportunities including day hikes, mountain biking, fly fishing, and scenic flights and helicopter rides. The town is also only a couple hour drive from Milford Sound, along what might be one of the most scenic and breathtaking highways in the world.
Upon completing the Southern Scenic Route, you will have visited three different seas–the Pacific Ocean to the east, the Southern Sea to the south in Bluff, and the Tasman Sea to the west at Milford Sound. Hopefully you were also lucky enough, as I was, to see some of the world’s rarest wildlife, most unique landscapes, sample some truly delicious local Southland cuisine, and experience a region rich with history and culture.
“Before them stood the mountains of the South: white-tipped and streaked with black. The grass-lands rolled against the hills that clustered at their feet, and flowed up into many valleys still dim and dark, untouched by the light of dawn, winding their way into the heart of the great mountains. Immediately before the travellers the widest of these glens opened like a long gulf among the hills. Far inward they glimpsed a tumbled mountain-mass with one tall peak; at the mouth of the vale there stood like a sentinel a lonely height. About its feet there flowed, as a thread of silver, the stream that issued from the dale; upon its brow they caught, still far away, a glint of the rising sun, a glimmer of gold.”
This is Tolkien’s first description of Edoras–the capital city of Rohan–in The Lord of the Rings. When crews were sent out to scout film locations for the trilogy, this is what they were looking for–grasslands, great mountains, a lonely peak, a silver stream. They spent several months searching until finally they found it, deep in the heart of the South Island, the perfect location; it was as if Tolkien was actually describing the landscape of New Zealand, rather than that of Middle Earth.
Here is the view they came across. Welcome to Rohan:
The city of Edoras itself was located on the small rocky hill at the base of the mountains, on the middle-right portion of the photo. This hill, while not really a mountain, is named Mt. Sunday and right in the center of one of the largest and most remote sheep and cattle farms in New Zealand. The location is quite difficult to access as it requires a long drive on a gravel road deep into the highlands of the South Island. It takes about two-and-half hours from Christchurch and one-and-a-half hours from Methven. Luckily for us LOTR nerds, a tour to Mt. Sunday is provided by Hassle Free Tours that picks up at either Christchurch or Methven.
The all-inclusive tour includes transportation to Mt. Sunday, lunch, behind-the-scenes photos and videos of the filming of Edoras, and a quiver of props from the movie for some epic photo opportunities.
I was the last to be picked up, in Methven, and joined about ten others on the bus who all left from Christchurch. Our little Fellowship was led by our driver and tour guide, Chris, who provided informative and entertaining commentary on the filming of the movies and New Zealand’s natural history. Along the way, we made several quick stops at viewpoints that provided remarkable scenery of the vast and open highlands landscape.
I was expecting Mt. Sunday to be packed with tourists attempting to recreate movie scenes for their Instagram shots, but to my surprise, aside from our group, we only came across four other people the entire time we were there. Again, it is difficult to get to and not quite as well-known as other film locations like Hobbiton on the North Island. Thus, I was able to recreate film scenes for my own Instagram shots in peace.
From the car park, it is a short but fairly steep walk up to the top. Of course, the constructions from the movie set are no longer there. A part of me feels that it is a shame that the incredibly detailed and intricate buildings of Edoras were taken down just days after they were built, including the great Golden Hall, where the king sat, but the other part applauds the film crew for leaving this wild and pristine landscape untouched. Despite housing the crew and actors, and hundreds of extras, as well as serving as a construction site for a fake city, there is no evidence that anyone was ever there. Even the jeep track that was used to carry the actors and equipment to the top was covered up.
We had no jeep available, so we had to hike up. Breathing heavily and starting to break a sweat, I arrived at the top and took my first look over the expanse of Rohan. A strong gust hit me head on, tunneling through the deep, mountainous valley ahead. No sign of the mighty Rohirrim galloping over the plains could be spotted, but the vista before me felt as epic and magical as Middle-Earth nonetheless. We carried up props that included King Theoden, Frodo, and Aragorn’s swords, and the banner of Rohan for the perfect photo opportunities.
After around a half hour at the top, we hiked back down and headed to Mt. Potts lodge, just 5 minutes up the road from Mt. Sunday, to enjoy a lunch of sandwiches and New Zealand sparkling wine while taking in the mountainous views one last time. From there, we made the drive back, leaving Edoras and Middle Earth behind us.
Hassle Free Tours has a monopoly on the Mt. Sunday tour, so the price is a bit steep, but take a look on Bookme to find deals (I scored my tour for half price!). Of course, if you have a car, you can drive to Mt. Sunday yourself and enjoy it for free! There’s a good chance you will have it all to yourself as well. However, your photos won’t include any swords or flags and, thus, lose about half the potential epic-ness.
For die-hard LOTR fans, or for those those looking for a scenic day trip in a remote and wild location, Mt. Sunday is well worth the trip.
Forth Eorlingas!
Here is a little update on my life at the moment:
After 6+ months of travel across two continents and 11 countries, I am now, more or less, settled down in the third and 12th–New Zealand. This small and scenic country in the far corner of the globe will be my home for the next year, where I will be traveling around and working on a Working Holiday Visa.
It’s been over half a year since I left home last August, and it has truly been quite the epic journey for me. From hiking around the European Alps to drinking beer at Oktoberfest in Munich, trekking through the high Himalayas of Nepal and riding camels in the deserts of India, ringing in the New Year with lanterns and fireworks in Chiang Mai, and skiing bottomless powder in Japan, the experiences of the last few months have created memories that will last a lifetime.
Having said that, I am ready to settle down a bit and have a place that feels like home again. I don’t think I will miss the early flights, enduring overnight train rides (no matter how cheap), and not-so-private hostel dorm rooms too much, though they made for plenty of good stories. Perhaps best of all, my bank account will finally be seeing some additions again after constantly dwindling down over the last few income-less months. In other words, I am still traveling, but not quite as the wayward bum I previously was (though still somewhat of a bum).
I arrived in New Zealand a little less than a month ago and have been busy getting myself set up since landing. The first week was spent in Christchurch where I had to do the mundane, but necessary, tasks of setting up a bank account, IRD number, phone plan, and insurance. Oh–and I bought a car! …as well as a whole heap of camping equipment and a mountain bike. So for now, I am all set to explore the wild and scenic landscapes of New Zealand.
But first, I had to find a temporary job as I spent the rest of my money on all these new toys.
Before I left Christchurch, however, I was able to see some old friends from back home–Nathan and Caile–who were on a cruise around New Zealand and docked in the city for a day. Unfortunately, we only had a few hours to spend together, but were able to catch up and make the most of it, highlighted by a scenic gondola ride up to a viewpoint overlooking the city and sea. How crazy it is to run into old friends from home in the other corner of the world!
I found a job on an apple orchard near Cromwell in Otago, where I have been for the last couple weeks. I was able to make a mini road trip out of drive here from Christchurch as I rode some bike trails at Mt. Hutt, visited Mt. Sunday–the filming location for the city of Edoras in the Lord of the Rings films, and took a scenic detour up the highway to Mt. Cook/Aoraki.
The orchard work is difficult, but rewarding, and I have made many new friends as there are about 15 of us here–all backpackers. We work together, cook, together, and party together.
I plan on staying here and working until meeting up with parents, who arrive in just over two weeks. I will travel with them for about a month, before settling down for a winter of working and skiing in Queenstown.
I have been in New Zealand for less than month, but I already have the sense that this is somewhere I could live. All the places I have visited thus far have brought me great enjoyment, but now it feels as if that chapter of my journey is ending, giving way to a new one. One that will surely be full of joy and adventure in this small, yet grand country.
