Oh, Italy–a land of good drink, even better food, significant history, and charming landscapes and cityscapes. Italy truly offers almost everything one could want in a travel destination. Unfortunately, I was only able to stay a week in the country, and only saw a small fraction of it. This is a place I could spend months traveling and still not see everything. Here are some highlights from my short, but worthwhile stay:
Rome
I was only in Rome three days, and despite being hungover much of the time, was still able to cover some of the main tourist attractions–namely, admiring the impressive architectural feat of the Colosseum, tossing coins in Trevi Fountain, and visiting the world’s smallest sovereign state: Vatican City.
Honestly, the Colosseum isn’t much more fascinating on the inside than it is from the outside (and viewing it from the outside is free), but the history behind the building is interesting to learn as it was the center of entertainment for the ancient city. Gladiator fights, battle reenactments, executions, and plays were just a few of the events held in the Colosseum. What makes the whole experience worth it is the ticket also includes entrance to the Forum, the center of ancient Rome that includes ruins of former government buildings, temples, and gardens. In addition, you can cheat the system and skip the line for the Colosseum tickets (up to two hours in the scorching sun) by buying tickets for both sites at the much shorter line for the Forum (took us about 10 minutes).
The Trevi Fountain is probably the most famous fountain in the world, and you will be able to tell as it is jam-packed with people at all times of the day. While you may have to fight for a good spot next to the water, making a wish and throwing a coin is a must-do ‘when in Rome’ and worth the couple minutes of chaos to check it off your bucket list.
The Vatican is an independent city-state located within the city of Rome and the smallest sovereign state in the world–both by population and area. It is the home of the Roman Catholic Church and ruled by the Pope. Also expect to wait in long, hot lines whilst visiting the Vatican, but the line moves fairly fast and we were in within 30 minutes. The highlight was walking up the steps to the dome at the top of St. Peter’s Basilica, which offers a 360 degree view of the entirety of Rome. Skip the line–and save a few Euros–by opting to walk the whole way up rather than take the elevator, but be ready to get your workout in. Also, it is not for those who get claustrophobic–the final staircase up to the top is in a tight enclosed space that you share with dozens of other sweaty people and no ventilation. However, if you are able to endure a few minutes of sweatiness and lack of oxygen, the views at the top are well worth it.
Sorrento Coast
My last four days in Italy were spent on the southern end of the peninsula in the Sorrento area. Using Sorrento as a home base, I took day trips to Capri, Pompeii, and Positano. While Sorrento is a worthy destination itself, these other locations (in addition to the Amalfi Coast which I didn’t have time to visit) are the real attraction and can be easily accessed from the Sorrento via ferry, train, or bus.
Capri was without a doubt the highlight of my Italy trip. A small island located just off the coast, Capri is just a short 30 minute ferry ride away from Sorrento. The ferry leaves every half an hour or so starting at 8am with the last boat back at 6:30pm. We got to the island around 10am and took the 6:30pm ride back, but if I were to do it again, I would have gotten to Capri even earlier as we easily could have spent another couple hours exploring the island. This was by far my most expensive day as it cost 38 Euro for a roundtrip ferry ticket, and everything on the island is very pricey as it is often frequented by celebrities and wealthy yacht owners, but the experience was well worth the price.
Colorful Italian homes perched along the islands steep hillsides and cliffs overlooked the clear, deep blue Mediterranean below. Fruit trees, grape vines, and vibrant flowers lined the narrow stone alleyways, enhancing the the warm air with a fresh citrus-like scent. In town, Gucci and Versace stores lined the streets, intermixed with seafood restaurants serving fresh catch of the day.
After exploring the town for a bit we took a bus over an incredibly windy and sketchy road built into the cliffside, over to the town of Anacapri on the other side of the island. My friend, and travel partner, Zoe, had heard about a chairlift that you can take to the highpoint of the island from Anacapri. This turned out to be absolutely epic as we rode a small, single-person chairlift that took us high above the island to some truly breathtaking viewpoints.
Instead of taking the lift back down, we decided to walk the steep, but short trail back to Anacapri. To save money, you could hike up to the viewpoint as well, but the chairlift was an enjoyable experience in itself and worth the 8 Euro ticket.
The next day, we took a train from Sorrento for about 3 Euro to Pompeii to explore the famous ruins there. I knew the story of Pompeii–how an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius had buried the city in ash and killed nearly all its inhabitants–but other than that, to be honest, my knowledge of the site was minimal and I didn’t quite know what to expect. While I found the Colosseum to be a bit underwhelming, Pompeii was the exact opposite. I was surprised by how large the city was, as it contained around 11,000 residents at its height, and the ruins are subsequently massive. What makes the ruins so incredible is the fact that the artifacts and buildings were removed from air and moisture since the city was buried under several feet of ash, thus, eliminating natural decay and erosion. As a result, many of the structures and artifacts are well preserved. The murals and paintings on the walls of homes are still vibrantly colored and detailed, as if they were painted a few years ago. Even some of the bodies were preserved, cementing their final moments in time.
Our last day in Italy, we took a cheap (2 Euro) bus ride to Positano, a popular coastal town and beach destination about an hour south of Sorrento along the Amalfi Coast. Positano is one of those postcard destinations characterized by colorful Italian style homes, long beaches, and a gelato stand seemingly around every corner. After several days of intense sight-seeing, and many, many miles walked, we spent the day at Positano relaxing on the beach and swimming in the sea. Swimming in the Mediterranean had always been a bucket list item for me, and one of my main goals while I was in Italy (aside from eating good food and drinking lots of vino, of course). The salt content is so high that I hardly had to use any effort to float. I lied on my back, zero-gravity style, floating at the top of the warm sea, watching clouds roll by for several minutes. It was a splendid week in Italy, a place I intend to visit again in the future, to see other parts of the country I missed this time, but mostly to eat more pasta and pizza.
If you are anywhere near Zermatt, the Matterhorn acts like a magnet, always pulling your gaze towards it. On a clear day, which is pretty rare, the iconic peak can be viewed from almost anywhere in town, as well as the neighboring mountainsides.
Zermatt is a tourist hub where most people visiting have one goal in mind: to see the Matterhorn. As a result, there is no shortage on tours or expensive trains/cable cars that will take you high up to some of the most scenic viewpoints of the mountain. That is, if you’re willing to pay the price; for example, the Gonergrat Glacier train, probably the most popular option, will set you back between 50-100 USD. Fortunately, if you are like me and on a tight budget (based on my budget I shouldn’t even be in Zermatt, but it has been a dream of mine to see the Matterhorn since the first time I rode the Disneyland version of it as a child), there are a few cheap–and free–options to get equally incredible views. Just be prepared to walk a little.
1. Hike to Stellisee
If I had to recommend one place to view and shoot the Matterhorn, Stellisee would be it. Try to get there in the morning (before 11am), and on a clear day, to catch the reflection of the peak in the lake.
How to get there:
You can either take a train-like thing (it’s not quite a train, more like a gondola on tracks…idk) up to Sunegga for 16 CHF one-way, or walk from Zermatt to Sunegga–about 2 hours–for free. From there, follow the trail to Stellisee (Trail #8) for about one hour. Stellisee is the last lake along the 5 seenweg (5 lakes trail–Trail #11), but it is quicker to take the trail that follows alongside the gondola.
On the way back, either take the same trail back to Sunegga (#8), or take the more scenic (about 1.5 hours longer) 5 seenweg trail (#11) and stop at four more lakes along the way. From Sunegga, it is an hour and a half downhill back to Zermatt.
2. Matterhorn Trail from Zermatt
The Matterhorn Trail (Trail #29) can be easily accessed from the center of Zermatt and provides great views as you walk towards the Matterhorn. For a long climb, take the trail all the way around, or for a shorter hike, take the trail towards Furi once you hit Zmutt. Both ways will lead you back to Zermatt.
3. Overlooking town
The shortest and easiest spot is located on the road just above Zermatt (it is actually the same road you would hike up/down to Sunegga) and is the perfect location to catch the sunset as it sets over the Matterhorn and the town. And of course, it is completely free!
Over my ten days spent in Switzerland, I had a difficult time comprehending the jaw-dropping, eye-popping, awe-inspiring immensity of the Swiss Alps. From iconic peaks like the Matterhorn, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, to the sleepy, quaint, frozen-in-time villages that dot the hillsides in their shadow, the landscapes of Switzerland were magic to the eye. Here are a few of my favorite shots during my stay:
Featured: The high alpine lake Stellisee reflects the image of the Matterhorn on a clear sunny morning.
1. The sun sets over Zermatt as the Matterhorn looms above.
2. Jungfrau, one of the main summits of the Bernese Alps, and the highest peak of the massif that includes Mönch and Eiger.
3. Mönch sits adjacent to Jungfrau, towering over Grindelwald below.
4. A paraglider prepares to land after soaring over the Lauterbrunnen valley.
5. The village of Mürren exemplifies the best in traditional Swiss architecture with amazing mountain views.
6. A small farmhouse sits on the slopes above Grindelwald with a view of the valley.
The train chugged along at 11,000 feet high, slowly climbing at a steep angle. As I was sitting facing the back of the train, gravity pulled me forward and I struggled to keep from falling into the lap of the passenger across from me. It was a brilliant, clear, sunny day, and the immensity of the Bernese Alps in western Switzerland was in full force as the series of 12,000+ feet peaks could be seen penetrating the sky from miles away. However, at that particular moment, even though I was a mere couple thousand feet away from these majestic mountains, the only view out the window was of a wall of rock and darkness.
I was traveling on the famous mountain train to Jungfraujoch—the highest place in Europe that can be accessed by car or train, at a comfy 11,333 feet, nestled on the bench between the iconic peaks of Mönch and Jungfrau. Departing from Grindelwald in the valley below, the train begins ascending towards the base of the Eiger, the most prominent peak viewed from Grindelwald–whose colossal north face casts a constant shadow over part of the town, and finally disappears into darkness in a long tunnel cutting through the heart of the Eiger and Mönch before eventually reaching its destination at Jungfraujoch.
The main center at Jungfraujoch is a multiple story building built inside a rocky peak on the bench between the two mountains, and consists of restaurants, gift shops, and an interactive tour. An elevator took us from the bottom level, where the railroad ends, to the top platform deck that provides a 360-degree panoramic view of the most incredible mountain vista I had ever seen. Great snowcapped limestone giants rose into the sky directly above me, their base giving way to a vast, flat glacier that meandered down the landscape like an icy highway, disappearing over the horizon into the next valley. The traditional Swiss cabins dotting the hillsides of Grindelwald could be spotted 8,000 feet below. Whether it was the beauty of the mountains, ice, and rock, or the effects of the altitude (likely a combination of both), I found myself breathless as I took it all in.
The great views only lasted for a few fleeting moments though, as anonymous heads popped in front of my line of vision left and right, squeezing into any available space to get their pictures taken in front of the mountains, fighting through crowds, pushing and shoving to get the best view. Selfie sticks waved aimlessly and haphazardly about, whacking unsuspecting heads and jabbing oblivious ribcages. Tour groups wandered in massive groups like grazing cattle, taking photos here and there, hurrying to catch up with the group so to not be left behind. The amusement park Disney-like feel was overwhelming at first and almost detrimental to the experience. At one point, I even forgot I was supposedly “in nature” as I was all too consumed in the chaos and commotion around me.
We eventually made our way outside where there was a short mile-and-a-half hike along a groomed trail across the glacier to Mönchsjoch Hut—the highest altitude serviced hut in Switzerland, at about 12,000 feet high, at the base of Mönch. While the hike was short and only gained about 700 feet, at that elevation, it felt much longer and steeper. It was just difficult enough to deter most of the crowds, leaving me a chance to finally breathe again, deeply inhaling that crisp, sharp mountain air. The sun was warm, reflecting off the bright, snowy surface, forcing me to strip to just my base layer as I made my way over the glacier. At the hut, we enjoyed a hearty lunch and rested our oxygen-starved lungs, while lounging on the deck and watching several climbing parties begin to ascend the south face of Mönch.
After lunch, we walked back to Jungfraujoch and finished the interactive tour, which included an ice cave, an Edelweiss themed gallery, and a history of the railroad. The stories and photos of how it was built was what most fascinated me. Construction started in 1896 at the base of Eiger, and for the next 16 years, workers chiseled a tunnel through the middle of Eiger and Mönch, reaching all the way to its current location. How they were able to complete such a task in that short of time with nothing more than pick axes and hammers is unbelievable. Almost more unbelievable, is that someone was mad enough to even think it would be possible to build something of the sort in 1896. Of course, dozens died in the process, for which there is a meager memorial along the tour dedicated to the men who lost their lives so people like me can have an epic tourist experience.
The question is, however, should tourists be able to visit a place like this in the first place? Sure, the railroad is an example of human will and achievement, but just because we can do it, should we? Should the (relatively) wealthy be able to pay for a train to take them to the top of a mountain? Should beautiful destinations like this one be turned into amusement parks where anyone can have their photo taken in front of majestic mountains if they have the means to pay for it? My first instinct is to say no. The environmentalist and wilderness advocate in me believes these places should be kept wild and free from development, that only those with the devotion and ability to climb to these rewarding views should be allowed to enjoy them.
On the other hand, it is unlikely I would ever make the climb myself, nor would 99% of the people that come up here. What the Jungfraujoch railroad does do is provide access to an extraordinary place for people who would otherwise never be able to see it. As most of the visitors were elderly, or unaccustomed to this type of outdoor experience, this was the only way for them to have such an experience. We can only hope that the visitors gain a new appreciation and respect for natural places and, as a result of their experience, join the movement to help protect them.
No, we should not start constructing railroads to the tops of mountains all around the world (this would surely spark outrage, especially in the U.S.), but maybe it is okay to have just one Jungfraujoch, if it means allowing ordinary people to get close to nature, so they may gain a better understanding and appreciation for it. Or maybe there is a better way that benefits both tourists and nature. I’ll let you decide for yourself.
Lech, Austria is a picturesque tourist town situated at the base of the Arlberg massif of the Austrian Alps. Known more as a winter ski destination, Lech, and the surrounding towns, still offer ample opportunities for recreation in the summer months as well. I spent my week in Lech hiking several of the many trails in the area, ranging from “easy valley hikes” to “very difficult mountain hikes.” A sophisticated bus and gondola/chairlift system provides easy access to the high elevation trails, saving the legs a couple thousand feet of climbing.
The best part–in my opinion–of hiking in Austria (and the Alps in general) is that the majority of trails leads to a mountain hut fit with electricity, flush-toilets, warm food, cold beer, and of course, scenic views. While not exactly a true ‘wilderness experience,’ having luxury is nice every now and then. There certainly aren’t many places in the States that offer such deluxe accommodations on a hike. For meat lovers, most huts have the traditional dishes of sausage and sauerkraut, or my personal favorite, Wiener schnitzel, on the menu. For the best Wiener schnitzel you’ll ever have (Disclaimer: I did just hike 11+ miles, gaining and losing 2000 feet in elevation, and at that point, anything would have tasted delicious), go to Ravensburger Hut at Spullersee. The tender, breaded and golden-fried pork steak, accompanied by fresh cranberry jam, the crispiest, herb-topped, melt-in-your-mouth potato fries, and a cold Austrian lager to wash it all down, was the perfect way to end a long, demanding hike.
I hiked and exercised a lot in Austria, but I also ate so well I’m not sure if I lost or gained weight during my time there! Here’s a picture of the Wiener schnitzel below to wet your appetite…
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